Method of making shoes



Feb. 9, 1937. CANTELMO v 2,069,941 I METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed April1, 19:55 i

ATTORNEY Patented Feb. 9, 1937 UNITED STATES PATET ()FFICE 2 Claims.

The present invention relates generally to the art of making shoes and,more particularly, to an improved method of making shoes, to inner solesutilized in said method, and to shoe made thereby.

According to one method of making shoes, it has been the practiceheretofore in lasting the upper, to secure the marginal edge portions ofthe upper in overlying relation to the inner sole by means of metalstaples passing through said marginal portions and penetrating the innersole to hold the upper in lasted relation, said staples being removedafter the welt is stitched to the upper and the inner sole. This methodhas been found undesirable for the reason that it is difficult to removethe staples and for the further reason that one or more of such staplesmay not be removed, usually through oversight on the part of theshoemaker. The failure to remove all of the staples is a seriousdisadvantage because such staples that may remain in the shoe becomeloose and find their way to various portions of the shoe where they maydo considerable damage to the material thereof. It is therefore anobject of the present invention to obviate these disadvantages and, moreparticularly, it is an object of the invention to provide an improvedmethod of securing the upper in lasted relation by means of staples insuch manner as to facilitate the removal of the staples and to eliminatethe possibility of failure to remove such staples during the manufactureof the shoe.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved inner sole foruse in the manufacture of shoes according to the present invention.

The above objects of the invention and other objects ancillary theretowill best be understood from the following description considered inconnection with the accompanying drawing.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of an inner sole utilized in the method of makingshoes according to the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a sectional view on the line 22 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, showing a modification.

Figs. 4, 5 and 6 are fragmentary sectional views illustrating steps inthe present method of making shoes.

Fig. '7 is a bottom plan view illustrating the method of making shoesaccording to the present invention.

In performing the method of the present invention, there is preferablyutilized a specially constructed insole Ill illustrated in Figs. 1 and2. Said insole may be of any suitable material, preferably leather ofsuitable thickness for use in a welt shoe and the marginal portion l2thereof, extending forwardly from the point l4 adjacent the heel-breastline at one side thereof around the toe to a point It adjacent theheel-breast line at the other side thereof, is reduced defining ashoulder 18 substantially coextensive with said marginal portion 12 ofreduced thickness. At the shank of the innersole, the reduced portion 52is bevelled as indicated at E3. Forwardly of the shoulder l8 andextending substantially coextensive therewith and generally in adirection parallel thereto, there is provided a channel 20 which extendsobliquely downwardly toward the marginal edge portion [2, forming a lip28, as best shown in Fig. 2. A strip 22 or tape of fabric such as canvasor similarly strong material is stitched at each side of the innersole19 to the bottom surface thereof by a line of through-and-throughstitching 24 located adjacent said shoulder l8 and extends fromsubstantially the heel-breast line to the toe portion 15. As shown inFig. 2, the strip 22 is a looped strip. While said looped strip ispreferred as it affords increased strength and rigidity, a strip 23 ofsingle thickness may be utilized instead of said looped strip. As willpresently appear, the fabric strip secured to the inner sole isutilized, according to the present invention, for securing the marginalside portions of the upper in position prior to the stitching of thewelt to the upper and to the insole. Hence, for convenience inreference, said strip may be referred to as a stapling strip.

The inner sole l0 provided with the tapes or stapling strips 22 ismounted on a last L with the tapes uppermost and then the upper 26 ofthe shoe is lasted and held temporarily in lasted relation with respectto the inner sole ID by means of a plurality of staples 28 which passthrough the marginal portions of the upper and the stapling strip 22,but without extending into the inner sole Hi. This step in the method ofmaking shoes according to the present invention is illustrated in Fig.4. After the side lasting operation, the toe and heel portions may belasted in accordance with the well-known method ordinarily employed inmaking Goodyear welt shoes. Then, as illustrated in Fig. 5, the welt 36is secured to the upper 26 and to the insole Ill by the inseam 32comprising a line of stitching disposed within the channel 2!) andextending through the between substance of the insole. Any looseness inthe upper is taken up by the action of the inseam 32 in forcing thewelted portion of the upper 36 into engagement with the shoulder [8, asbest shown in Fig. 5.

After the welt 30 is stitched to the upper and to the insole asillustrated in Fig. 5, the shoe bottom is trimmed to remove, by atrimming operation, the projecting portions of the welt, upper, andstapling strip which extend above the surface of the insole so that thetrimmed edges of said portions lie close to said surface of the insole,as illustrated in Fig. 6, and there remains a narrow portion 25 of thetapes 22 and a reduced inner edge portion 3| of the welt 30. As thestaples 28 are disposed at a substantial distance from the trimmingline, it will be readily apparent that the trimming operation isefiective to remove all the said staples from the shoe, since saidstaples are carried by the marginal portions of the upper and by thestapling strip which are removed by the trimming operation so that it isimpossible for the shoemaker to neglect to remove said staples in makingthe shoe. After the trimming operation and the other operations wellknown to those skilled in the art are performed, the out-sole 34 may beapplied and secured in the usual manner by a line of stitching 36, asillustrated in Fig. 6, and the shoe is completed in the usual way.

While the method of making shoes according to the present invention hasbeen described with reference -to the use of the looped stapling strip22, it will be understood that the same steps in the method are followedwhen utilizing an in-sole provided with a stapling strip 23 of singlethickness. Further it will be understood that the present method may beemployed in connection with other types of insoles provided withstapling strips of other constructions having the function of thestapling strip described herein, and that certain changes in the methodwill occur to those skilled in the art, in view of the presentdisclosures. Therefore, I do not wish to be limited to the preciseconstructions herein described and illustrated except as may be requiredby the appended claims and the prior art.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of making shoes which comprises mounting on a last ashouldered and channeled insole having a tape attached to its betweensubstance, lasting an upper and attaching the marginal edge portionsthereof to said tape, securing a welt and said upper and insole togetherby stitching disposed in said channel and extending through said betweensubstance, and then trimming 01f said tape and marginal edge portions ofthe upper close to the channeled surface of said insole.

2. The method of making shoes which comprises mounting on alast ashouldered and channeled insole having a tape attached to its betweensubstance by stitching extending from one edge of the tape into theinsole and the other edge being free, lasting an upper and stapling themarginal edge portions thereof to said tape adjacent its free edge,securing a welt and said upper and insole together by stitching disposedin said channel and extending through said between substance, and thentrimming off said tape and marginal edge portions of the upper close tothe channeled surface of said insole.

JAMES CANTELMO.

